Spanish Ways and By-ways, with a Glimpse of the Pyrenees
William Howe Downes
eBook
This travelogue was published in 1883 and explores the cities, customs and charms of 19th century Spain. Chapters: I. Introductory II. Paris to Burgos III. Burgos IV. First Bullfight V. Burgos to Madrid VI. Madrid VII. The Picture Gallery VIII. Madrid to Seville IX. Seville X. Pictures in Seville XL Seville to Granada XII. The Seven Floors XIII. The Alhambra, with a Legend XIV. Granada XV. Cordova XVI. Back in the Capital XVII. The Escorial XVIII. Literature of the Bull Ring XIX. Bayonne, Biarritz, and Pau XX. Pau to Eaux-Bonnes XXL Eaux-Bonnes XXII. Eaux-Chaudes XXIII. The Plateau of Bious-Artigues ............................................................................... Some excerpts: FIRST BULL-FIGHT: It will be many years before public opinion demands or permits the abolition of the national amusement. You are told by a certain class of Spaniards, who are inclined to be very sensitive and self-conscious, that bull fighing as an institution is falling into merited disrepute; that they themselves consider it bar- barous and disgusting, and that it will not be long before it will be abolished; in proof of which they point out the efforts constantly making in the Cortes for the legal prohibition of the sport. The people who talk in this way are, I think, perfectly sincere; but they are in a very small minority. New rings have lately been built in many towns, and fine arenas are supported by comparatively small cities. That the opponents of bull fighting form but a very inconsiderable proportion of even the higher classes in Spain is demonstrated by the practical unanimity with which the aristocracy and the well-to-do folk of the large cities present themselves in their upholstered boxes each Sunday afternoon, in precisely the same way that the belles and swells of London or Paris drop in at the opera on subscription rights; and by the foundation, in 1882, of a new periodical devoted exclusively to the arte taurino. ............................................................................... MADRID: You are told that the capital is one of the most uninteresting towns in the whole country. The people of the old Andalusian cities, and the thrifty Catalans, despise the "mushroom metro- polis". Much that is said against Madrid may be true, but then the picture gallery is there! The other cities may point to the glories of the past, but the Museo is a glory of today and unites the proud past of Spain with her future possibilities. Madrid is , it may be admitted, less distinctively Spanish in character than the other large citries, and for that very reason it is in many respects a more comfortable place of residence. It has the best hotels in Spain, and modern com- forts and conveniences can be had by paying for them. the Fonda de la Paz indeed is, though expensive, the only first- rate hotel in Spain, unless the acconts of travelers are un- trustworthy. .............................................................................. Seville is undoubtedly the most Spanish of all Spanish towns. The streets are very narrow and crooked, and the houses are all either whitewashed or painted a very light pink, blue or green shade, which contributes not a little to the intolerable glare. In some of the streets awnings are suspended from roof to roof, so that you may drive under a canopy for some little distance protected from the sun's rays. The houses have patios, or interior courts, surrounded by balconies, and in the dwellings of the rich these are very beautiful, being paved with marble tiles and ornamented by tropical trees and plants, fountains and flowers. The open-work iron gates leading from the street to the patios permit the passerby to obtain charming glimpses of these refresing spots.