Books with author Cal Newport

Looking to jumpstart your GPA? Most college students believe that straight A’s can be achieved only through cramming and painful all-nighters at the library. But Cal Newport knows that real straight-A students don’t study harder—they study smarter. A breakthrough approach to acing academic assignments, from quizzes and exams to essays and papers, How to Become a Straight-A Student reveals for the first time the proven study secrets of real straight-A students across the country and weaves them into a simple, practical system that anyone can master. You will learn how to: • Streamline and maximize your study time • Conquer procrastination • Absorb the material quickly and effectively • Know which reading assignments are critical—and which are not • Target the paper topics that wow professors • Provide A+ answers on exams • Write stellar prose without the agonyA strategic blueprint for success that promises more free time, more fun, and top-tier results, How to Become a Straight-A Student is the only study guide written by students for students—with the insider knowledge and real-world methods to help you master the college system and rise to the top of the class.

Do Less, Live More, Get Accepted What if getting into your reach schools didn’t require four years of excessive A.P. classes, overwhelming activity schedules, and constant stress? In How to Be a High School Superstar, Cal Newport explores the world of relaxed superstars—students who scored spots at the nation’s top colleges by leading uncluttered, low stress, and authentic lives. Drawing from extensive interviews and cutting-edge science, Newport explains the surprising truths behind these superstars’ mixture of happiness and admissions success, including: · Why doing less is the foundation for becoming more impressive.· Why demonstrating passion is meaningless, but being interesting is crucial.· Why accomplishments that are hard to explain are better than accomplishments that are hard to do. These insights are accompanied by step-by-step instructions to help any student adopt the relaxed superstar lifestyle—proving that getting into college doesn’t have to be a chore to survive, but instead can be the reward for living a genuinely interesting life.

The cheapest parts for vehicles, bikes, boats and buildings are the ones you can reuse. But one stubborn bolt or screw can be a disaster. The three most common bits of advice are: heat it until it glows red, use a longer spanner and use a grinder. All of them might work but they all risk damaging the part, the building or vehicle under repair, and possibly even you.We've designed a simple, effective, 10-step freeing system to:Preserve expensive, rare, or irreplaceable parts;Protect existing structures from brute force damage;Minimise collateral damage and the risk of injury;Save time waiting for replacement parts;Save money on parts and labour.We also cover what to do if things have already gone wrong:Handling Head damage:External drive heads (hex, bihex, square, etc.)Internal drive heads (Allen, Torx, spline, etc.)Handling Thread damage:External (shaft) thread repair and replacementInternal (bore) thread refurbishment and repairHandlingSheared or snapped shafts: Protruding stump extractionFlush with surface extraction or removalExtensive Appendices on:Basic ToolsSpecialist ToolsPersonal Protective Equipment (PPE)The Six Simple MachinesEXTENSIVELY UPDATEDNEW Web Link ResourceImproved ReadabilityEnhanced DiagramsTriple Jump Chapter IndexingThe hazards of Internet wisdom: heat it, use a longer spanner, grind it off.Heat: Works well for a nut on a bolt because the nut circumference expands, making the hole bigger. It also disrupts the rust crystals. But what about a bolt seized in a bigger item like a brake caliper? Expanding the bolt will disrupt the rust a bit, but that's about it, the bore won't get bigger. Some items are designed to act as a heatsink to keep the things cool. You'll need a very powerful, danergous heat source.All this assumes there aren't inflammable liquids, flexible hoses or painted surfaces nearby. But vehicles are awash with flammable liquids and tend to have flexible hoses in the very places most likely to get rusty... brakes, exhausts and transmission components. Buildings always have varnished, painted surfaces and even plastics everywhere.Longer Spanner: This is the least likely to work. It usually ends one of two ways: rounding off at least two corners of the nut or bolt head, or shearing the bolt shaft. This assumes you even have room for a huge lever... or a small lever with a length of tubing threaded onto it and a heavy friend hanging off it!Grinder: The nuclear option. You accept you'll have ground-off bolt stump to extract, possibly paintwork to repair, and you grind the nut or bolt head off. As with the long spanner this assumes you have enough space for a large spinning disk next to the bolt. Also, showers of sparks and hot metal aren't a great combination with flammable liquids. In cramped spaces you may find yourself unable to slide the assembly off the stump without fouling on something else... You could have spotted that earlier, but when you're frustrated enough to reach this point, you generally don't.

[Read by Dave Mallow]What you do for a living is much less important than how you do it. In this eye-opening account, Cal Newport debunks the belief that ''follow your passion'' is good advice. Not only is the cliche flawed but also can lead to anxiety and chronic job hopping. Newport set out on a quest to discover the reality of how people end up loving what they do and uncovered the strategies they used and the pitfalls they avoided. Newport's clearly written manifesto is for anyone fretting about what to do with their life or frustrated by their current job situation and eager to find a new way to take control of their livelihood. Here he provides a blueprint for creating work you love.

The cheapest parts for vehicles, bikes, boats and buildings are the ones you can reuse. But one stubborn bolt or screw can be a disaster. The three most common bits of advice are: heat it until it glows red, use a longer spanner and use a grinder. All of them might work but they all risk damaging the part, the building or vehicle under repair, and possibly even you.We've designed a simple, effective, 10-step freeing system to:Preserve expensive, rare, or irreplaceable parts;Protect existing structures from brute force damage;Minimise collateral damage and the risk of injury;Save time waiting for replacement parts;Save money on parts and labour.We also cover what to do if things have already gone wrong:Handling Head damage:External drive heads (hex, bihex, square, etc.)Internal drive heads (Allen, Torx, spline, etc.)Handling Thread damage:External (shaft) thread repair and replacementInternal (bore) thread refurbishment and repairHandlingSheared or snapped shafts: Protruding stump extractionFlush with surface extraction or removalExtensive Appendices on:Basic ToolsSpecialist ToolsPersonal Protective Equipment (PPE)The Six Simple MachinesEXTENSIVELY UPDATEDNEW Web Link ResourceImproved ReadabilityEnhanced DiagramsTriple Jump Chapter IndexingThe hazards of Internet wisdom: heat it, use a longer spanner, grind it off.Heat: Works well for a nut on a bolt because the nut circumference expands, making the hole bigger. It also disrupts the rust crystals. But what about a bolt seized in a bigger item like a brake caliper? Expanding the bolt will disrupt the rust a bit, but that's about it, the bore won't get bigger. Some items are designed to act as a heatsink to keep the things cool. You'll need a very powerful, danergous heat source.All this assumes there aren't inflammable liquids, flexible hoses or painted surfaces nearby. But vehicles are awash with flammable liquids and tend to have flexible hoses in the very places most likely to get rusty... brakes, exhausts and transmission components. Buildings always have varnished, painted surfaces and even plastics everywhere.Longer Spanner: This is the least likely to work. It usually ends one of two ways: rounding off at least two corners of the nut or bolt head, or shearing the bolt shaft. This assumes you even have room for a huge lever... or a small lever with a length of tubing threaded onto it and a heavy friend hanging off it!Grinder: The nuclear option. You accept you'll have ground-off bolt stump to extract, possibly paintwork to repair, and you grind the nut or bolt head off. As with the long spanner this assumes you have enough space for a large spinning disk next to the bolt. Also, showers of sparks and hot metal aren't a great combination with flammable liquids. In cramped spaces you may find yourself unable to slide the assembly off the stump without fouling on something else... You could have spotted that earlier, but when you're frustrated enough to reach this point, you generally don't.